Canary Islands, ES

Playa de las Teresitas

The Sand of Las Teresitas: A Beach Bought From a Desert

Playa de las Teresitas does not have local sand. Tenerife is a volcanic island, and the beaches it makes on its own are black or dark grey, ground from basalt by the Atlantic. The gold sand at Las Teresitas was bought, shipped, and laid down on a schedule set by a city council. It is the most documented thing about the beach, and the most easily overlooked when you are standing on it.

Playa de las Teresitas,

A City That Decided to Build a Beach

In 1953 the Santa Cruz de Tenerife city council voted to build an artificial bathing beach at Las Teresitas, north of the fishing village of San Andrés. The capital sat on a working volcanic coast that produced no wide golden sand of its own, and the council wanted a proper amenity close to the city. The decision was not to clean up or restore a natural beach — there was no natural beach of the kind they wanted — but to manufacture one. Years of planning and approvals followed before construction began.

First the Breakwater, Then the Fill

Two problems stood in the way: the open Atlantic, and the sand itself. The Atlantic was solved first. From 1968 a stone breakwater was built about 150 meters offshore and run for roughly one kilometer, set to break the swell and convert the exposed bay into a sheltered lagoon. The order mattered: without the breakwater, any sand placed on the bay would be dragged straight back out to sea by the currents. The breakwater is the reason the water at Las Teresitas shelves gently and stays flat, and the reason the imported sand has stayed put for half a century.

270,000 Tons From the Spanish Sahara

In 1971 the council secured a 50-million-peseta loan and bought 150,000 cubic meters of sand — weighing about 270,000 tons — from the El Aaiún region of what was then Spanish Sahara, the Spanish colony on the African coast to the south. The sand was packed into roughly 5 million sacks and carried across to Tenerife aboard a ship named the Gopegui, operated by the phosphate firm Fosfatos de Bucraa. Over the first half of 1973 it was spread across the bay behind the new breakwater. The finished beach — 1,300 meters long and about 80 meters wide — opened to the public on 15 June 1973.

The timing is part of the story. The sand was bought in 1971, while the Spanish Sahara was still a Spanish colony; Spain withdrew from the territory in 1975-76. The gold underfoot at Las Teresitas is, in a small way, an artifact of the late Spanish empire — material extracted from a colony shortly before it was given up.

A Built Beach Is a Maintained Beach

Importing sand once does not end the problem. The sea keeps working at the material, and a constructed beach is a recurring expense. Between April and November 1998 the council added 2,800 tonnes of fresh Saharan sand to replace what had been lost, at a cost of 400 million pesetas. The gold color that reads as natural in every photograph is in fact a managed stock, topped up when it depletes.

The import also carried passengers. In the early years, red ants and scorpions were accidentally brought over with the desert sand — a reminder that moving 270,000 tons of one ecosystem onto another is not a clean operation.

What the Postcard Leaves Out

Las Teresitas is sometimes written about as a found wonder, a tropical-looking beach improbably attached to a volcanic island. It is more accurately understood as civic engineering that worked: a city looked at a coast that would not give it the beach it wanted and built that beach out of a breakwater and a desert shipped in sacks. The result is genuinely pleasant and genuinely useful — flat clear water, warm gold sand, the dark ridges of the Anaga massif behind. What it is not is natural. The most interesting fact about the sand is the one the postcard omits: it has a purchase order, a ship's name, and an opening date.