St. Elizabeth, JM

Treasure Beach

Treasure Beach Jamaica 2023.jpg

St. Elizabeth, JM

Treasure Beach

Hurricane Melissa hit Jamaica at 185 mph on 28 Oct 2025, the strongest hurricane on record to strike the island; St. Elizabeth recorded 18 deaths.

Treasure Beach Jamaica 2023.jpg · <a href="//commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?title=User:Treasurebeachjamaica&amp;action=edit&amp;redlink=1" class="new" title="User:Treasurebeachjamaica (page does not exist)">Treasurebeachjamaica</a> · CC BY-SA 4.0
Nearest airport
MBJ · 72 km
I’m here for
Story

Treasure Beach is not one beach but five coves strung along Jamaica's south coast in St. Elizabeth Parish: Fort Charles Bay, Billy's Bay, Frenchman's Bay, Calabash Bay, and Great (Pedro) Bay. Local density restrictions keep the area free of all-inclusive resorts; hotels stay small, the beaches stay public, and the town markets itself as the birthplace of Jamaica's community-tourism model.

The name comes from the Treasure Beach Hotel, built in the early 1900s by Canadian Ernest George Hamilton Dicker at the invitation of the local Senior family; it eventually lent its name to all five coves. The area's modern identity runs through one family. Sally Henzell bought the Calabash Bay property in 1991 and opened Jake's as a restaurant in 1993; her husband, Perry Henzell, director of The Harder They Come, Jamaica's first feature film, died at a relative's home in Treasure Beach in November 2006.

Their daughter Justine Henzell co-founded the Calabash International Literary Festival with Colin Channer and Kwame Dawes in 2001, the same year fisherman Floyd Forbes built a plank-and-driftwood bar on a sandbar a mile off Parrottee Point and named it for the pelicans that perch there. Locals with pale skin, light eyes, or red hair are called "red" or "browning," a trait travel writers attribute to a Scottish shipwreck; genealogists who have researched the parish say the real ancestry, running through the slavery era in southern St. Elizabeth, is more complicated than the shipwreck story admits.

On 28 October 2025, Hurricane Melissa came ashore in the neighboring parish of Westmoreland with sustained winds of 185 mph and a landfall pressure of 897 millibars, the strongest hurricane on record to strike Jamaica, surpassing 1988's Hurricane Gilbert. St. Elizabeth Parish recorded 18 of the storm's 95 regional deaths. Aerial surveys between Treasure Beach and Black River found 80 to 90 percent of roofs destroyed, and at Calabash Bay Fishing Beach the storm stripped the sand down to bare stone and wrecked the boats, ice houses, and processing sheds the local fishing economy runs on.

Nine months later, the community has largely rebuilt. On 23 December 2025, about 200 farmers and fisherfolk in Treasure Beach received more than J$7 million in recovery supplies and equipment at the BREDS Foundation Complex, part of the local relief effort in the storm's aftermath; by late April 2026 the Gleaner reported the town roughly 98 percent restored, with sand naturally returning to Calabash Bay and fishermen slowly working their way back out to sea.

The spike

Hurricane Melissa hit Jamaica at 185 mph on 28 Oct 2025, the strongest hurricane on record to strike the island; St. Elizabeth recorded 18 deaths.

Treasure Beach's whole identity is built on staying small, and Hurricane Melissa is the event that showed what staying small costs when a Category 5 hurricane comes ashore in the same parish. This is an account of that storm and what nine months of recovery have looked like on the ground.

What actually hit St. Elizabeth. Hurricane Melissa made landfall on 28 October 2025 near New Hope in Westmoreland Parish, immediately west of St. Elizabeth, with sustained winds of 185 mph and a central pressure of 897 millibars. Those numbers sit at the historical extremes of Atlantic hurricanes: Melissa's peak intensity, 190 mph, ties Hurricane Allen (1980) as the strongest Atlantic hurricane on record by wind speed, while its 185 mph landfall ties Hurricane Dorian (2019) and the 1935 Labor Day Hurricane as the strongest landfalling Atlantic hurricane; by landfall pressure it ranks second only to that same 1935 storm. Jamaican and international reporting agree on the headline: Melissa was the strongest hurricane on record to strike the island, surpassing Hurricane Gilbert, the 1988 Category 5 storm still used as the reference point for anyone over 40 in St. Elizabeth. Melissa killed 95 people across the region — 45 in Jamaica, 43 in Haiti, four in the Dominican Republic, one in Cuba — and caused more than $12.2 billion in damage overall, with roughly $8.8 billion of that in Jamaica alone. St. Elizabeth Parish, which contains Treasure Beach, recorded 18 of the storm's Jamaican deaths and was described in early reporting as simply "underwater."

What it did to this specific stretch of coast. Treasure Beach did not take a direct hit the way Westmoreland did, but it sat close enough to the eyewall to be flattened anyway. Aerial surveys conducted between Treasure Beach and Black River found 80 to 90 percent of roofs destroyed. At Calabash Bay Fishing Beach, the working heart of the local economy, the storm surge stripped the sand cover down to bare rock stone and wrecked the small open boats, ice houses, and processing sheds that St. Elizabeth's fishers depend on. Floyd's Pelican Bar, the driftwood structure fisherman Floyd Forbes had built on a sandbar off Parrottee Point in 2001 and already rebuilt once after Hurricane Ivan flattened it in 2004, was destroyed a second time.

Why a small, deliberately undeveloped place absorbs this differently. Treasure Beach's whole tourism model is built around staying small: density restrictions keep out the all-inclusive chains that dominate Jamaica's north coast, so the accommodation base here is family guesthouses and a handful of independent hotels like Jake's, run without the large insurance reserves and corporate parent companies that cushion bigger resort towns after a storm. The same logic applies to the fishing fleet: Jamaica's fisheries sector produced more than J$30 billion in 2023 and supports an estimated 40,000-plus fishers island-wide, most of them, as in Treasure Beach, working small open boats with no formal insurance. When the National Fisheries Authority's CEO, Dr. Gavin Bellamy, said Melissa was "not just damage to property, but a direct blow to the livelihoods of thousands of Jamaicans and the protein supply for our nation," he was describing exactly the arrangement that makes Treasure Beach's brand of tourism work when nothing goes wrong, and exactly what breaks when a Category 5 hurricane does.

The recovery, honestly measured. The response moved fast at the community level. BREDS – Treasure Beach Foundation, the local nonprofit that Jason Henzell of Jake's Hotel co-founded in 1998, became a hub for relief distribution; on 23 December 2025, about 200 farmers and fisherfolk received more than J$7 million in recovery supplies and equipment at the BREDS Foundation Complex. Jamaica Public Service restored power with a temporary generator and added transfer capacity. By late April 2026, six months after landfall, the Jamaica Gleaner reported Treasure Beach roughly 98 percent restored: homes and seawalls rebuilt piece by piece, sand naturally returning to Calabash Bay, and fishermen beginning to work their way back out to sea, though several months behind where they would normally be at that point in the season. Floyd's Pelican Bar reopened in February 2026, rebuilt again by former staff and volunteers who came back on their own to clear debris.

What the number 98 percent hides. A recovery percentage measures buildings and beaches, not income lost during the gap or boats that were never replaced. The National Fisheries Authority's damage estimate for the whole industry ran into the billions of Jamaican dollars, and individual fishers at Calabash Bay do not have the balance sheets to absorb a season lost to the worst-rated storm in the island's recorded history. Treasure Beach's selling point, as a place that never let itself become a resort town, is also the reason its recovery runs through community cash-for-work crews and family labor rather than corporate insurance payouts. The sand has come back. The 19 tropical cyclones recorded within 50 nautical miles of this coast over the last 50 years, one of them now the strongest on record, are also on the books.

Treasure Beach 1994.jpg
Culture

Where it shows up

Film
  • The Harder They Come · 1972
    Perry Henzell

    Jamaica's first feature film, starring Jimmy Cliff, is credited with bringing reggae to an international audience; director Perry Henzell died at a relative's home in Treasure Beach in 2006.

Literature
  • Calabash International Literary Festival · 2001
    Colin Channer, Kwame Dawes, and Justine Henzell

    A literary festival staged in Treasure Beach, held annually through 2010 and biennially since, hosting writers including Salman Rushdie, Zadie Smith, and Marlon James.

History
  • The Scottish shipwreck legend

    Travel writers attribute the fair skin, light eyes, and red hair found among some Treasure Beach families to shipwrecked Scottish sailors who intermarried with locals; parish genealogical research suggests a more complex, multi-source ancestry.

  • Hurricane Melissa · 2025

    The Category 5 storm that made landfall in Westmoreland Parish on 28 October 2025 with 185 mph winds, the strongest hurricane on record to strike Jamaica; St. Elizabeth Parish, home to Treasure Beach, recorded 18 deaths.

Treasure Beach 1994.jpg
History

What happened here

  1. 1900founding

    Treasure Beach Hotel gives the area its name

    Canadian Ernest George Hamilton Dicker builds the Treasure Beach Hotel in the early 1900s (exact year undocumented) at the invitation of the local Senior family; the name spreads to all five surrounding coves.

    Wikipedia →
  2. 1991founding

    Sally Henzell buys the Calabash Bay property

    Sally Henzell buys the property at Calabash Bay that will become Jake's; she opens it as a restaurant with two guest rooms two years later.

  3. 1993founding

    Jake's Restaurant opens

    Sally Henzell opens a restaurant at Calabash Bay with two guest rooms; it grows over the following decades into Jake's Hotel, run by the Henzell family.

  4. 1998founding

    BREDS – Treasure Beach Foundation founded

    Jason Henzell of Jake's and Peace Corps volunteer Aaron Laufer form the nonprofit after a group of local youths asks for a basketball court; it grows into the community's main social-service organization.

  5. 2001founding

    Floyd Forbes builds the Pelican Bar

    Fisherman Floyd Forbes builds a wooden platform bar on a sandbar off Parrottee Point, hauling materials out by boat over several months.

  6. 2001cultural

    Calabash International Literary Festival founded

    Colin Channer, Kwame Dawes, and Justine Henzell launch the festival in Treasure Beach; it runs annually through 2010, then biennially.

    Wikipedia →
  7. 2004natural

    Hurricane Ivan destroys the original Pelican Bar

    Hurricane Ivan levels Forbes's original bar structure; he rebuilds it.

  8. 2006cultural

    Perry Henzell dies in Treasure Beach

    The director of The Harder They Come, Jamaica's first feature film, dies at a relative's home in Treasure Beach on 30 November 2006 after a seven-year illness.

    Wikipedia →
  9. 2025natural

    Hurricane Melissa makes landfall

    Category 5 Melissa comes ashore near New Hope, Westmoreland Parish, with 185 mph winds and 897 mbar pressure, the strongest hurricane on record to hit Jamaica; St. Elizabeth Parish records 18 deaths, and the Treasure Beach–Black River corridor loses 80–90% of its roofs.

    Wikipedia →
  10. 2026recovery

    Treasure Beach reported roughly 98% recovered

    Six months after Melissa, the Jamaica Gleaner reports the town's homes, seawalls, and beaches largely rebuilt, with fishermen at Calabash Bay slowly returning to sea.

The honest part
“The same smallness that makes Treasure Beach worth visiting is what left it with the least cushion when the storm hit.”

The uncomfortable arithmetic here is that the same smallness that makes Treasure Beach worth visiting — no all-inclusive towers, a fishing economy run on family boats, guesthouses instead of chain hotels — is also what left it with so little cushion when Hurricane Melissa hit. St. Elizabeth Parish recorded 18 deaths, and Jamaica's fisheries sector alone lost billions of Jamaican dollars serving an estimated 40,000-plus fishers island-wide, most of whom, like the fishers at Calabash Bay, carry no formal insurance on their boats or gear. A 98-percent recovery figure by April 2026 describes rebuilt roofs and returned sand; it does not describe the income a fisherman lost while his boat sat wrecked for months, or what happens the next time a storm like this comes, given that this coast has already logged 19 tropical cyclones in the last 50 years and Melissa was only the first to reach Category 5.

That trade-off is not new to this hurricane. Floyd Forbes rebuilt his Pelican Bar after Hurricane Ivan destroyed it in 2004, and rebuilt it again after Melissa destroyed it in 2025 — twice, on his own initiative, on a sandbar he does not own outright, because there was no insurer or government reconstruction fund standing behind a driftwood bar a mile out to sea. Treasure Beach's tourism marketing calls this resilience. It is also simply what happens when a fishing village keeps choosing not to become a resort.

Treasure Beach Jamaica.JPG
Anatomy

The shape of the place

Frenchman's Bay

20%

The most commonly photographed cove, backed by small guesthouses and facing due west; generally treated as Treasure Beach's primary swimming beach.

Best for Sunset and swimming

Sand composition is a mixed quartz-feldspar-lithic regime, predicted at about 74% quartz, colored brown.

Calabash Bay

50%

A roughly 600m cove mixing brown sand with magnetite black sand, home to Jake's Hotel and the working Calabash Bay Fishing Beach where the local fleet lands its catch.

Best for Fishing-village life, Jake's Hotel

Hit hardest by Hurricane Melissa in October 2025; sand was stripped to bare rock and only naturally returned by around April 2026.

Great (Pedro) Bay

80%

A small fishing settlement of roughly 3,000 people west of Pedro Bluff, quieter and less visited than Calabash Bay.

Best for Quiet fishing-village atmosphere

Landmarks

Jake's Hotel · 1993

hotel · Sally Henzell

Built up from a restaurant Sally Henzell opened in 1993, two years after she bought the Calabash Bay property, with her husband, filmmaker Perry Henzell; still run by their children Jason and Justine Henzell.

Floyd's Pelican Bar · 2001

structure · Floyd Forbes

A driftwood-and-plank bar built on a sandbar roughly a mile off Parrottee Point, reachable only by boat; destroyed by Hurricane Ivan in 2004 and by Hurricane Melissa in 2025, rebuilt both times by Forbes and volunteers.

Calabash Bay Fishing Beach

working fishing beach

The landing point for Treasure Beach's small open-boat fishing fleet; stripped to bare stone by Hurricane Melissa's storm surge in October 2025 and still recovering.

A day here

From first light to dark

Dawn

Fishing boats have launched from Calabash Bay Fishing Beach at first light for generations; as of April 2026, six months after Hurricane Melissa stripped the beach to bare stone, boats were only beginning to work their way back out, one of the clearest signs the recovery was not yet complete.

Midday

Midday sun is direct and the coast is dry — St. Elizabeth's south side gets less rain than Jamaica's north coast — with little shade on Frenchman's Bay or Calabash Bay; storm-damaged almond and sea-grape trees along the shorefront are still regrowing their canopy.

Golden hour

Frenchman's Bay faces west across open water, and this is when the small guesthouses along the shore fill their verandas; there is no built-up boardwalk or resort strip to compete with the sunset, just the beach and the fishing boats pulled above the tideline.

Night

Treasure Beach has no nightlife district; after dark the coves go quiet except for Jake's Hotel and a handful of guesthouse restaurants, a contrast the community-tourism model treats as a selling point rather than a limitation.

Before you go

Things to know

No all-inclusives

Density restrictions keep hotels small; there is no resort strip, and most beds are in family guesthouses.

Recovery is still visible

As of this writing, nine months after Hurricane Melissa, some roads and services along the St. Elizabeth south coast are still being rebuilt; confirm details with your accommodation before arrival.

No lifeguards

Swimming is unsupervised at all five coves; ask locally about currents before going in, especially outside Frenchman's Bay.

You need a car or a driver

There is no airport nearby; most visitors arrive by rental car or prearranged taxi from Montego Bay or Kingston.

Sharks

No incidents on record in the global shark-attack file.

Plan

If you go

Getting there
Nearest airport
Sangster International Airport (MBJ) · 72 km
Nearest town
Southfield · 10 km

Treasure Beach has no airport. The nearest is Sangster International (MBJ) in Montego Bay, about 72 km away in a straight line but roughly 130 km and 2 to 2.5 hours by road via the South Coast Highway; Norman Manley International (KIN) in Kingston is a comparable drive from the other direction. The nearest town, Southfield, is 9.6 km inland. Rental car, prearranged taxi, or the Knutsford Express bus service (to Black River or Santa Cruz, with a local taxi transfer) are the practical options; there is no rail or scheduled ferry service.

When to go
  • Calabash International Literary Festival · Held in May in odd years since resuming after the pandemic (2023, 2025); next edition unannounced as of this writing

    A three-day festival of readings and music founded in 2001 by Colin Channer, Kwame Dawes, and Justine Henzell; recognized by the Hurston/Wright Foundation's Madam C.J. Walker Award in 2021.

What to eat & drink
Jake's Restaurant

Sally Henzell's restaurant at Jake's Hotel, opened in 1993 on the Calabash Bay property she bought in 1991, built around whatever the day's boats brought in.

Jake's Hotel, Calabash Bay

Fried and steamed fish, Calabash Bay Fishing Beach

Boats land the day's catch directly on the beach, where informal cook shops prepare it fried or steamed with okra, tomato, and scotch bonnet pepper in south-coast style.

Calabash Bay Fishing Beach

Floyd's Pelican Bar

Fisherman Floyd Forbes's driftwood bar on a sandbar a mile off Parrottee Point, reachable only by boat, serving Red Stripe and rum; rebuilt in early 2026 after Hurricane Melissa destroyed it.

Sandbar off Parrottee Point

St. Elizabeth ground provisions

Yam, pumpkin, and escallion from St. Elizabeth's interior, long nicknamed Jamaica's breadbasket parish for its farmland, supply the pots at Treasure Beach's small kitchens alongside the local catch.

Markets in Southfield and Black River, and local guesthouse kitchens

Sources & references
  1. Wikipedia: Hurricane Melissa · cited 4×
  2. jakeshotel.com/our-story · cited 2×
  3. Jamaica Gleaner, 28 Apr 2026 · cited 2×
  4. Wikipedia: Treasure Beach
  5. bredsfoundation.org
  6. Rum Therapy; multiple Jamaican travel press accounts
  7. Wikipedia: Calabash International Literary Festival
  8. Jamaican travel press accounts
  9. Wikipedia: Perry Henzell; NBC News
  10. Wikipedia: Hurricane Melissa; NHC
  11. NHC Tropical Cyclone Report AL132025; Wikipedia: Hurricane Melissa
  12. NBC News/AOL aerial-tour reporting, Oct 2025
  13. IBTrACS v04r01 / NOAA NCEI
Colophon · Provenance

Where this page comes from

Geography, facilities
OpenStreetMap (ODbL) for geometry and facility tags within 500 m of the beach centroid. GeoNames for city/airport distances.
Climate & ocean
Open-Meteo ERA5 + Marine archive, 2014–2023 monthly normals.
Photography
Archival, original tone (Tier B — Wikimedia Commons). Each image licensed per its own terms; attribution visible inline.
History & culture
Every factual claim is linked to its source in the prose above. Wikipedia citations inline. Non-wiki sources named where relevant.
Editorial voice
Register: severe. Written to pass a local's nod test; corrections welcome.
Written by Erin Rose
Last reviewed 2026-04-19
v0.9 — in editorial development toward v1.0